Lined Up: There are beach break days where all variables come together. On such days, the experienced Surfer will wait, able to discern patterns in the Ocean’s language of shifting, lurching waves encountering shallow bottom. Occasionally an “outside” wave will just pass the first sandbar, thus retaining its full potential as it stands up with all force on the “inside” to unload it’s beautiful, violent energy. This rider’s track testifies to his wave knowledge and skill. In early, “fading” to ensure position, then “coming off the bottom” and projecting down the line to maximize speed, he is flawless in his approach.
photo by Surfing Nosara