For those of you who don’t know, William Finnegan is the author of one of the best pieces of surf literature out there. The piece, Playing Doc’s Games, which appeared in The New Yorker (broken into two installments because if its size) follows the small pod of Bay Area surfers surfing spots like Mavericks in the early 90’s. If you haven’t read it yet, it’s worth looking at. Once you have, come back to read this interview on The Inertia. Finnegan talks about his early surfing days, how he got into writing and the fears and consequences of writing Doc’s Games.
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