The wind was strong when I went kayaking in Lake Arenal’s warm waters beneath the Arenal Volcano. A large, dreamlike, lone tree with orange blossoms stood on the lakeshore. With my kayak nestled between the wind and a marshy island, I was surprised to hear the familiar call of the Red-winged Blackbird. I saw Great Egrets—angel white against the green grasses—and cormorants and aninghas, perched to dry their wings. The sun rarely emerged—the sky was stormy and gray—but the water and the greenery stood out as if it were a bright and sunny day.